The Sartorial Report: New York Fashion Week Spring 2017 RTW

Whenever Fashion Week rolls around, you can’t help but be excited. If you love fashion as much as I do, the sheer wonder at seeing your favourite designers’ newest creations can’t be matched. When street style photographs give you serious closet envy, when you imagine the delicious chaos of the big 4 – New York, Paris, London and Milan as venues fill up with beautiful people taking their seats, when you just can’t wait to pull on your favourite PJs and watch it live online (dratted time difference!) and risk losing sleep but it’s totally worth it. New York holds a special place in my dreams and so this time too, I’ll be talking about my favourite designers, looks and decode runway trends. Here goes!

  1. Alexander McQueen: This collection seemed inspired by the magic of the sea, with its dreamy, sea foam-like gowns that seemed inspired by some undersea goddess rising out of the ocean mists, with liberal doses of McQueen punk. Think leather and lace done up in on-trend silhouettes, from ruffled leather dresses to punk plaid suits and gothic lace gowns. Inspired by a trip to the Shetland Islands, the collection has a lot of natural motifs too. Floral embellishments, almost magical dresses that invoked the sea and knitted lace that paid tribute to a knitting community called the crofters in the Isles abounded, with that sprinkling of urban London that only the label Alexander McQueen can pull off.
  2. Alice + Olivia: One of my favourite labels, they’re always known for pushing the envelope and I love them for their adorable mascot and the fact that they’re constantly innovating with a certain urban luxe feel they have. This season’s woman goes from urban Italian to countryside belle with equal finesse. Tailored culottes, jewel-toned shirt dresses, and a mix of nature and art, especially when it came to a particularly covetable pair of embellished jeans. As always, the intricate detailing won me over for the most part along with a totally on-point understanding of urban chic.
  3. Kate Spade: A marked departure from the preppy urban NY aesthetic they’ve had, but continuing with that touch of whimsy and playfulness. This collection has a very Moroccan feel to it, from the ceramic motifs to the playfully adorable camel prints, one even with detailing around the eyelashes. There were flowing, kaftan-esque silhouettes and colours inspired by the desert – rust, sand, rich maroons and bohemian touches like colourful pom pom and tassel accents on the accessories.
  4. Victoria Beckham: Standing apart from her usual fitted silhouettes (remember her ‘wiggle dress’?), Beckham’s show had lots of knife pleats, knitted dresses and drop-waist dresses mostly paired with knee-high grey boots in canvas and leather, in beautiful colours like peppermint and lilac on one hand and rich, deep colours including this rust coloured number above that’s one of my favourites.
  5. Cushnie et Ochs: Lots of party season picks from this collection, that featured asymmetrical hemlines, and keyhole tops in satin and velvet. I especially loved the gathered waist on the first dress above and the sheen of the black keyhole neckline dress.
  6. Marc Jacobs: Keeping aside the cultural appropriation in the hairstyles, the overall look and feel was ’80s rave’ with a bit of the 90s thrown in too. Towering platforms with every outfit, lots of sparkle with rainbow-coloured sequins and jackets with patch motifs, and 90s knee-high socks with tons of metallics and metallic pastels reigned.
  7. Marchesa: Inspired by the rosy pinks and blues of the setting sun, Marchesa managed to stay firmly in the realm of fantasy and their idea of what constitutes a dream. A metallic knife pleated dress looked like it was crafted from molten metal, and gowns looked like they were spun out of a princess story, using lots of tulle that made it almost look like the model was gliding down the runway.
  8. Jeremy Scott: The show was a tribute to the excesses of the 80s with its neon prints and grainy, suggestive prints and details – one featuring latex and collars. Reminiscent of downtown New York in the 80s, the overall effect reminds one of crowded clubs late at night, with that gritty New York look still coming through.
  9. Kendall + Kylie: The Jenner/Kardashian sisters debuted their collaborative collection at New York Fashion week. Inspired mostly by their own always coveted outfits, from relaxed shirt dresses to furry backpacks and minimalistic suits. An interesting debut, this. Looking forward to what else they have in store.

I also saw some incredible street style looks shot by Phil Oh – the coming season will see lots of trends from now, including chokers that seem to be here to stay, flatform sandals and lots of relaxed silhouettes. Skirts are voluminous and flowy, with knife pleats seen in many shows. The 90s are the reigning decade with knee-high socks, leather and plaid taking up centrestage. Watch out for my London, Milan and Paris reviews coming up very soon!
For more on the latest trends in fashion, follow our journey on Instagram and Snapchat (sartorial.s). Until next time!

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